Finding the perfect spot for your beehive and choosing the right Langstroth hive setup are crucial first steps for any beekeeper. Let's break down both of these important decisions.

Where to Place Your Beehives: Location, Location, Location!

The right location for your beehive can make a huge difference in the health and productivity of your colony. Here are key factors to consider:

• Sunlight Exposure:

  • Morning Sun is Gold: Ideally, your hive should receive morning sun (facing southeast is often recommended). This helps warm the hive early in the day, encouraging bees to start foraging sooner.

  • Afternoon Shade (in Hot Climates): If you live in a very hot climate, partial afternoon shade can prevent the hive from overheating during the hottest part of the day. Overheating can stress the bees and even cause them to "beard" outside the hive or abscond (leave).

  • Full Sun (in Colder Climates): In cooler climates (like USDA zones 1-6), full sun exposure throughout the day is generally beneficial for keeping the hive warm.

• Wind Protection:

  • Shield from Prevailing Winds: Position your hive so that the entrance is protected from strong prevailing winds, especially in winter. A natural barrier like a fence, hedge, or building can help deflect wind and prevent excessive heat loss or moisture buildup inside the hive.

  • Entrance Direction: Facing the hive entrance to the southeast can also help protect it from harsh winter winds that typically come from the north or west.

• Access to Resources:

  • Food Source: While bees can fly a few miles for nectar and pollen, placing your hive near a diverse source of flowering plants (trees, shrubs, flowers, crops) will make foraging more efficient and productive.

  • Water Source: Bees need a consistent water source, especially in hot weather and for brood rearing. A bird bath with pebbles (so they don't drown), a shallow pan of water, or even a dripping faucet nearby is helpful. If you don't provide one, they'll find it, which might be your neighbor's pool!

• Drainage and Stability:

  • Dry Ground: Place the hive on a well-drained, level spot. Avoid low-lying areas where water can collect.

  • Hive Stand: Always place your hive on a hive stand (cinder blocks, wooden stand, etc.). This elevates the hive off the ground, preventing moisture from wicking up, protecting it from pests (like ants and skunks), and making inspections easier on your back.

• Accessibility for You:

  • Easy Access: You'll need to inspect your hive regularly, so make sure you can easily access it from all sides. Don't place it in a dense thicket or where you'll have to duck under branches.

  • Safe Working Space: Leave enough clear space around the hive (at least 6 feet in front of the entrance) so that bees have a clear flight path and you have room to work comfortably without obstructing their activity.

• Safety and Neighbors:

  • Away from High Traffic Areas: Place hives away from busy pathways, driveways, or public areas where people or pets might accidentally disturb the bees.

  • Consider Flight Path: If possible, orient the hive entrance so that bees fly over a fence, hedge, or building immediately after exiting the hive. This forces them to fly upwards, keeping them above head height and minimizing contact with people or animals in your yard or your neighbors' property.

  • Predator Protection: If you have concerns about bears, raccoons, or skunks, consider electric fences or other predator deterrents.

Choosing a Langstroth Beehive: Sizes and Considerations

The Langstroth hive is the most popular beehive design worldwide, known for its movable frames (which makes inspection and management easy) and standardized parts. When choosing one, you'll mainly be looking at box sizes and frame counts.

• Components of a Standard Langstroth Hive:

  • Outer Cover: The top lid that protects the hive from the elements.

  • Inner Cover: Sits just below the outer cover, providing insulation and "bee space."

  • Supers (Boxes): These are the main boxes where bees live. They come in different depths.

    • Deep Super (Brood Box): This is typically the deepest box (around 9 5/8 inches tall). It's commonly used for the brood nest, where the queen lays eggs and the colony raises young bees. A full deep super can be very heavy (60-80 lbs or more) when filled with honey or brood.

    • Medium Super (Honey Super / Brood Box): Mediums are shallower (around 6 5/8 inches tall). They're often used as honey supers (where bees store surplus honey for harvest), but many beekeepers also prefer using them for the brood nest because they are lighter (40-60 lbs when full) and easier to lift.

    • Shallow Super (Honey Super): Even shallower (around 5 11/16 inches tall), these are almost exclusively used for honey supers and are the lightest to lift when full.

  • Frames: These fit inside the supers and are where bees build their comb. They typically come with foundation (wax or plastic sheets) that guides the bees to build straight comb.

  • Bottom Board: The base of the hive. You can choose:

    • Solid Bottom Board: A solid wooden base.

    • Screened Bottom Board (IPM Bottom Board): Has a screened bottom that helps with ventilation, mite monitoring, and mite drop. It often includes a removable tray.

  • Hive Stand: (As mentioned above) Elevates the hive off the ground.

• 8-Frame vs. 10-Frame Hives:

  • 10-Frame: This is the most common and standard size. It's wider and holds 10 frames per box. It offers more space for bees and honey production. Because it's standard, finding compatible parts and accessories is very easy.

  • 8-Frame: This hive is narrower and holds 8 frames per box. It's lighter and easier to lift, making it a good choice if you have back issues or prefer less heavy lifting. However, it provides less space per box, so you might need more boxes (and thus more lifting total) as your colony grows. Mixing 8-frame and 10-frame equipment is generally not recommended as they are not interchangeable. Most beekeepers stick to one or the other.

• Wood Type and Quality:

  • Pine: Most Langstroth hives are made from pine. Look for good quality, untreated pine. You'll need to paint or treat it for weather protection (as discussed in the previous response!).

  • Cedar/Cypress: Some hives are made from naturally rot-resistant woods like cedar or cypress. These might not require painting, but they are typically more expensive.

• Assembly:

  • Unassembled Kits: Many hives come as unassembled kits, requiring you to put them together. This is usually more affordable.

  • Assembled Hives: You can buy pre-assembled hives, which are more expensive but save you time and effort.

• Consider Your Goals and Physical Ability:

  • Honey Production: If maximizing honey production is your main goal, a 10-frame system might offer more capacity.

  • Weight Lifting: If heavy lifting is a concern, consider using all medium supers for both brood and honey. This means all your boxes will be the same lighter weight and interchangeable, simplifying management. While a deep brood box offers more contiguous space for the queen, many bees do just fine with multiple medium boxes for brood.

By carefully planning your hive's location and selecting the right Langstroth hive components for your needs, you'll be well on your way to a successful and enjoyable beekeeping journey!